Outsiders had called it Mob Town when, on April 19, 1861, Confederate sympathizers attacked Yankee soldiers and shed the first blood of the Civil War. According to Frank Shivers, Baltimore's unique charm must have something to do with the city's wonderful mix of opposites - North and South, old-fashioned rowhouses and modern office towers, industrial waterfront and revitalized inner harbor, the venerable Walters Art Gallery and funky Fells Point...