Velia, the ancient Greek Elea, is an archaeological site near the town of Ascea on the western coast of Italy about two hours by train south of Naples. The traveler exhausted by the hot and stony streets of Pompeii, surfeited by the sensory overload of Paestum's temples and museum can come to Velia to be revived. There are -- to be sure -- things to see, hills to climb, vistas to drink in, and ancient city walls to explore; but everything is out in...
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