Umbria is a landscape of peaks and valleys, much of it mountainous, with river valleys and lakeside plains providing an imaginative contrast to the dominant uplands. Historically and culturally it has also been a story of highs and lows: from the heights of Etruscan and Roman urban culture to the violent depths of the Dark Ages and medieval period; from the masterworks of undoubted artistic geniuses like Rafael, Giotto, and Burri to the limitations...