Tsukiji, the place that gives the Tokyo Central Wholesale Market its common name, is somewhere between a well regulated machine and chaos. Stepping into the market is like stepping into a raging river where, if you don't quickly learn to navigate, you will drown under its activity. I stepped into this torrent for the first time in 1991, when nearly 3,000 tons of seafood was handled each day, making this the largest fish market in the world. The...