It was during a late July night in Southern Finland as our Helsinki - Leningrad Express rumbled towards the Russian border when Misha somberly warned us: "We are about to enter the land of the enemy". Misha's expression turned stern and foreboding as Lee, Bernie, Betty and I sat dumfounded in our compartment, wondering what to expect next. We were on an organized professional railway tour of the Soviet Union and Eastern Europe during the height of...
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