Richard Mayson first visited Portugal as a child, nearly fifty years ago. He immediately fell in love with the country, living there and revisiting it many times over the ensuing half century. During those years Portugal has changed greatly, as have its wines. The cooperatives and wine merchants of the 1970s produced patriotically Portuguese blended wines with little sense of place. D o, Bairrada and Vinho Verde all existed as demarcated regions...