If Lucerne is the most widely advertised lake in the world-if its name, in recent years, has come to be associated, less with ancient gallant exploits of half-legendary William Tells than with cheap Polytechnic Tours and hordes of personally conducted trippers, it has luckily forfeited singularly little of its ancient charm and character, and remains, if you visit it at the right moment-or at any moment, if you are not too fastidious in your claims...
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