'In the collective unconscious, the shore of dreams ? The Beach of Alex Garland's backpacker utopia ? was uncommercialized, undiscovered by guidebook writers. And preferably, one suspects, uncontaminated by natives.' Hoping to discover what compels 700 million travellers to set out each year, Taras Grescoe embarks upon the well-worn tourist trail, armed with his trusty travel bibles ? the Michelin and Lonely Planet guides. He starts from the tip of...