Hundreds of miles from the tourists, the hotels, and the beaches, there is another side of Baja, Mexico. Dry and treeless desert marches into the crystal blue waters of the Sea of Cortez--once described by Jacques Cousteau as nature's aquarium. The eastern coast is dotted with small bays where all the beauty and magic of Mexican culture are still on full display. The bays can be places of exile, or places of redemption. For those who, long...