Siberian Dawn: A Journey Across the New Russia

by Jeffrey Tayler

Book Overview

No guidebook existed for my route; no one had ever done it before", writes Tayler. As the first American to visit many of the places he goes, his reports on a country in transition are timely and... This description may be from another edition of this product.

• Format: Hardcover
• Language: English
• ISBN: 1886913269
• ISBN13: 9781886913264
• Release Date: June 2000
• Publisher: Ruminator Books
• Length: 301 Pages
• Weight: 1.40 lbs.
• Dimensions: 1.2" x 6.3" x 9.3"

Customer Reviews

Informative, exciting, dangerous and eye-opening

Long fascinated by Russia's vastness, extremes of climate, tumultuous history and nuclear arsenal, Jeffrey Tayler quit his stultifying Peace Corps job in Tashkent in 1993 to get to know the country by traveling "the entire landmass of the former Soviet Union", a journey of 8,325 miles, from Magadan, Siberia, to Warsaw, Poland. With Tayler's survival sometimes in doubt and his progress often in peril (from bureaucrats as much as terrain), its tempting to flip to the end of his account, "Siberian Dawn," to make sure that he did, in fact, succeed. Few armchair travelers will envy Tayler his harrowing trip - across Siberia, through the Urals, into the Black Earth zone and over the Ukraine border - but his stubborn approach, open friendliness and occasional lapses of temper make him a stimulating guide to a land of grandeur, chaos and tragedy. The bleakest of the bleak is the frozen Far East, Siberia. Populated by the descendants of prisoners and a few others lured by high salaries in the `60s, now evaporated, none can afford to leave. Indeed, it seems, when Tayler arrives by air at his starting point, Magadan, that air is the only way out. Road travel, he is told, is not possible. At last a friendly inhabitant admits, "It's not impossible. Sometimes trucks go to Ust-Nera. But who wants to go there? When you leave you will fly out." Tayler sticks to his plan and hitches a ride on one of the trucks taking a route "passable only when frozen." The driver immediately wants to know, " `What drives an American from the comforts of the U.S. to Magadan? This doesn't seem normal to me. And frankly, I wonder if an American can handle the toughness of it.' " But Tayler, speaking Russian like a native, or at least like "a Soviet citizen from one of the Baltic Republics," maintains his determination and confidence. Siberia, a land of riches and perils, is sparsely dotted with enclaves of dour, defeated Russians, maintained on vodka and bad food. They mix not at all with the native ethnic peoples who seem to Tayler no better off. But Tayler speaks to everyone he meets, even makes friends. He gathers the history of places (most hark back to Stalin) and notes the old people's nostalgia for Stalin's strong arm, the young people's sullen defeatism, the general distrust and envy of capitalism. And everywhere the land is blighted by toxic, even radioactive waste. A numbness settles over him, though it is not reflected in his observations or conversations, which remain full of curiosity and sympathy. But Siberia, "a natural prison," seems to have a natural numbing effect on everyone. The weather, the isolation, the history, the bleak landscape, the hopelessness. It's a place that actually breeds bracing theories about the benefits of radioactivity. Not until Lenin's birth place on the Volga does this oppressive feeling lift. "An intoxicating warmth stole over me," Tayler says, wandering the streets of Ulyanovsk. "In some visceral way, I suddenly realized how Europea

Amazing that he made it thru alive

Like reading a battle survivor's story, you wonder how he made it. The Kirkus review says it all. The only negative is that all throughout the book he talks of taking pictures but none of them made it into the book. I kind of wonder if the publisher left them out for monetary reasons. A good book that would have been a spectacular one with the pictures...

I LOVED IT

I felt I was back in Siberia. I enjoyed myself immensely in Western Siberia and Tayler's book brought back the sights and smells.

An enjoyable read. Classic Jeffrey Tayler!

This is a tremendous book. Jeffrey Tayler's Siberian Dawn a chronicle of his 8000 mile trip across Russia tells us as much about the current state of the former Soviet Union as it does about the bleak consequences for Russia's future. Through Tayler's masterful descriptive narrative and an unmatched ability to communicate the important details skillfully we are bestowed with a mostly grim picture of a people and society in complete disrepair. At some points a dangerous journey, he threads his way across a Russian geography complete with a remnant (and maddening) bureaucracy, copious criminal elements, dangerous drunkards, and treacherous unrelenting weather. Jeffery Tayler's trip makes any college student's year off hitchhike across the U.S. look like an arranged travel company tour complete with catering. Not without its bright spots, Tayler occasionally catches glimpses of Russian scenery that by its beauty and power leaves him spell bound. Also, he is occasionally bestowed with what might be considered genuine hospitality. He does meet a few Russians along the way that offer kindness, guidance and who possess a recognition that not all is lost in post communist Russia. As is true with much of Tayler's work the real power of this book is the strength and skill of his writing. Like few other travel writers he places you at the scene both physically and emotionally. My only regret about the book is that he did not include some of the photographs he took on the trip and provide a map illustrating the course of his journey (I found one and tracked it myself). Nonetheless you will enjoy this fine read and will come away with an appreciation of Tayler's magnificent accomplishment in writing about his travels across Russia. S. H. Hassett

An excellent book.

...and what a journey! Geographical descriptions were vivid; I felt as though I were riding with him. Gives new meaning to the word "desolation". Would like to have seen a map of the itinerary published in the book, along with pictures taken during the trip (including pictures of the truck drivers and friends met who invited him into their homes). Looking forward to the next adventure... (I'll get there someday!)