Patternmaking for Fashion Design (with DVD) [With DVD ROM]

by Helen Joseph-Armstrong

Book Overview

Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, Patternmaking for Fashion Design offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles--dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring--it provides students with all the relevant information necessary...

• Format: Hardcover
• Language: English
• ISBN: 0135018765
• ISBN13: 9780135018767
• Release Date: October 2009
• Publisher: Pearson
• Length: 840 Pages
• Weight: 4.10 lbs.
• Dimensions: 1.6" x 9.6" x 11.0"

Customer Reviews

FINALLY a book with slopers!

I have purchased many books just trying to find one that explains pattern blocks and how to make a sloper. As it turns out, I just had to get a really old book to find one with actual information in it. Sometimes I feel like modern books on this subject are omitting crucial information intentionally, but maybe that's just me being jaded. As I obtained an older copy of this book, the designs are not exactly modern, but I consider this to be a good thing. Putting that aside, you should be able to make your own designs if you apply yourself to this book and have at least an intermediate knowledge of sewing.

Great for learning how to manipulate patterns

I was introduced to this book through a pattern making class, and though I have not read this book page-by-page, I found to be very useful. I have a sloper of my own measurements that I use for my own designs, but this book provides a copy of various half-scale slopers you can use to practice with. There is also a chapter on making your own sloper, but I just skimmed over it. This book teaches you the basic principles behind pattern manipulation. You can use the principles in this book to make original designs of your own. There is so much information in this book that I cannot touch on everything and keep this review short, so it's a bit long. Once you have your own sloper made, and understand the principles that this book teaches you, you will never need to buy a store bought pattern. There are 36 chapters in this book; and just to give you an idea of how broad a scope of pattern manipulation this book touches on I'll list the chapters:1. The work room, 2. Model Form and Measurements, 3. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set, 4. Dart Manipulation (Principle #1), 5. Designing with Darts (Tuck-darts, Pleats, Flares, and Gathers), 6. Stylelines, 7. Added Fullness (Principle #2), 8. Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks, 9. Contouring (Principle #3), 10. Collars, 11. Built-up Necklines, 12. Cowls, 13. Skirts/Circles and Cascades, 14. Sleeves, 15. Kimono, Raglan, Drop, Shoulder, and Exaggerated Armholes, 16. Buttons, Buttonholes, and Facings, 17. Plackets and Pockets, 18. Dresses without Waistline Seams (Based on Torso foundation), 19. Strapless Foundations, 20. Patternmaking for Bias-cut Dresses, 21. Shirts, 22. Jackets and Coats, 23. Capes and Hoods, 24. Knock-Off-Copying Ready-Made Designs, 25. Pants, 26. Knits-Stretch and Shrinkage Factors, 27. Knit Foundaiton, 28. Actionwear for Dance and Exercise, 29. Swimwear, 30. Introduction to Childreswear, 31. Drafting the Basic Pattern Set Measurement taking Standard Measurement Charts, 32. Collars, Sleeves, and Skirts, 33. Dresses and Jumpers, 34. Tops, 35. Pant and Jump Suits, 36. Bodysuits, Leotards, Maillots, and Swimwear,

really comprehensive text for flat patternmaking

After receiving this textbook for my third level patternmaking course in design school, I managed to read through after the term was over and realized how much we had skipped over - this book is packed with how-to information on developing not only the basic block (bodice F/B, skirt F/B, fitted sleeve) but variations of all sorts. I think a reader with good skills at visualizing a fashion design could, with this text, learn to pattern and build almost anything. First, every single exercise she covers is more than adequately illustrated, with fashion figures (or portions thereof) modelling the particular neckline, sleeve, skirt silhouette, etc so you can accurately see, not guess, what the style line in question looks like on a body. And technical drawings are clear and plentiful, so one can easily understand whether she's overlapping the skirt panels to compare hip curves or pivoting the bodice back to transfer a dart from waist to side seam. No confusion here, which is quite an accomplishment given the complexity of the subject. Second, the accompanying text is abbreviated to make the read easier but not so much that you will get lost in following from step a to step b. And at the beginning of each section the author given a little introduction which compares the efficiency and difficulty of the given method, outlines its uses and end results, and possible further adaptations. In the first 2 chapters, author covers the workroom (incl. list of tools, photos from manufacturing, completed sample cost sheet/pattern chart/design specification sheet, basic fabric and pattern terminology used in later chapters, and summaries of computerized patternmaking and development processes) and model form measurement. Chapter 3 covers drafting the basic pattern set. Chapters 4-9 cover the three main principles of flat patternmaking: dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring. Author then devotes a chapter to each of: collars, built-up necklines, cowls, skirts/circles/cascades, sleeves, kimono/raglan/dropped/exaggerated armholes, buttons/buttonholes/facings, plackets/pockets, dresses without waistline seams, strapless foundations/interconstruction, bias-cut dresses, shirt foundations, jackets/coats, capes/hoods, knockoff methods, pants, knits, knit foundations, actionwear/dancewear/exercisewear, and swimwear. Then follows this with 7 chapters covering various aspects of childrenswear. Yep, REALLY comprehensive. This text will function quite well as a reference volume, because it's logically organized, well indexed, tells and shows WHY the principles in question are true, and addresses problems to be solved in addition to just explaining basic elements. In addition to patternmaking instructions, the author includes lots of useful reference material, for example: names of different types of pleats, standard sizing for childrens' wear, definition of a peplum (with illustrations), recommended methods & materials for knocking off (copying) a ready-made garme

The textbook I go back to most often

This was one of my favorite textbooks from design school. It's the one I refer back to most often, because I know what I want will be there, and will be presented clearly. It is the most complete reference I have in my library for flat-patternmaking, and covers everything from making basic slopers from measurements (the book provides measurements for standard sizes, or substitute a real client's), through all sorts of bodices, sleeves, collars, skirts, pants, and other details. Also included are sections on knitwear, including swimwear, and a good portion of the book is devoted to children's clothing. Highly recommended and well worth the price.

amazing

I never drafted a pattern before I read this book. Now I can make my own designs. It is easy to follow. Has great illustrations and clear instructions. I love it

Excellent

This book, unlike many others, goes into extensive detail regarding dart manipulation. I have been able to re create the intricate designs of the 30's 40's and 50's where dart manipulation was the essence of the garment. It is complex but not so much so that the average dressmaker cant use it. It is written in a tutorial type format, with reduced scale pattern blocks to practice with. All in all, the best book I have got in my large collection.