As they drove through the hot flat Iraqi desert, Patricia looked over at her husband. He was guzzling water; sweat was running down his neck; the outside temperature was way over 100; and their 1963 VW camper van had no air conditioning. "Yikes," she thought. "This is not how I pictured our honeymoon." It was August of 1966. They had gone to Europe the previous summer after their wedding, and that trip had stretched into a two-year adventure that...