As recently as the 1970s, the term "fine Ontario wine" was an oxymoron, and a bottle of Ontario wine at a wine-tasting produced skeptically raised eyebrows. The Ontario wine industry in the Niagara region began to experiment as early as the 1920s with French varietals and hybrids -- only to have its efforts frustrated by Prohibition, government restrictions, the Depression, and a World War. And yet today the wines of Ontario are among...