California's upper Napa Valley is regarded by many as the premier wine-growing region in America. Producing vintages since the 1850s, the mountain-ringed valley studded with ancient oaks is the setting for several wineries that have been active for more than a century, overcoming a variety of challenges from insect invasions to Prohibition. But Napa's "Up Valley" also has a rich pioneer heritage that extends beyond its famous vineyards and cellars...