One of the best and most readable books ever written about legendary surfers and their pursuit of the perfect wave, well illustrated with photographs. This description may be from another edition of this product.
This book was first published over 40 years ago when much of the history was fresh in people's minds. Now the pictures and stories are even more priceless and amazing, whether or not you are someone who surfs from your armchair or are comfortable riding double-overheads. It's the perfect companion for any surfing trip and a great way to while away the hours waiting for the surf to pick up. I reread this book every winter just to be transported to warmer locales with big waves. This book would be a great gift for any surfer.
Delivers a thrilling approach to big wave surfers' imaginary
Published by Thriftbooks.com User , 15 years ago
Thrilling stories on Hawaii big wave pioneers, which have brought me a little closer to what was on those brave men's minds that has motivated them to overcoming such enormous challenges. Mr. Peter Dixon is indeed one of them, therefore credibility is top to what one is about to find inside this great book. Awesome means to delve into fundamental aspects of surfing history, and also good example of overcoming human limits.
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