In parts of the city, the whole street system has disappeared. People who were born here and have worked here all their lives can no longer find their bearings. Huge piles of rubble, concrete and collapsed buildings are the new landmarks to be negotiated, where once stood houses and the shops inhabited by industrious housewives and tired clerks, noisy children and grumbling grandparents. Winding cobbled lanes, with black and white half-timbered...