In that topsy-turvy logic of the Roverso Mondo (the Upside-Down World) mountains are made of cheese, rivers flow with wine, labor is abolished, and pleasure rules in a fantastical place of abundance, the gastronomic utopia known as il Paese di Cuccagna (the Land of Cockaigne). Forming the mythic core of a centuries-old dream of plenty, it came to be closely associated with America. When mass migration was possible, the dream brought millions of the...