Either as a crucial ingredient of the tea ceremony, an important element of shrine rituals, or simply as a way to cool oneself during the scorching Japanese summer, sweets are as central to Japanese life and culture as poetry or gardening. To me, they have also been a way to experience this culture - and some of my best memories of Japan are in one way or another connected with its myriad snacks. One summer night, I started writing haiku about these...