On her very first day in Chile in 1985, a young Meredith Temple-Smith encountered a shrunken head at the home of the guide who was to lead a four-month zoological expedition to Patagonia. She was the only woman travelling with her new husband - a reproductive biologist - and three locals, two of whom spoke no English. In a culture outside her own, enduring often harsh physical conditions and engaging in the painstaking work of trapping and documentation...