In 1889 Gertrude Bell, the great British archaeologist, writer and explorer, arrived in Constantinople (Istanbul) on the first of many visits to what is now Turkey. Over the next 25 years, she would travel the length and breadth of the country, crossing the Tigris on a raft of inflated goatskins and taking the earliest photographs of remote corners of the country. Veteran guidebook writer Pat Yale set out to retrace Bell's Turkish adventures...