Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads

by Sylvia Lovegren

Book Overview

Though the Roaring Twenties call to mind images of flappers dancing the Charleston and gangsters dispensing moonshine in back rooms, Sylvia Lovegren here playfully reminds us what these characters ate for dinner: Banana and Popcorn Salad. Like fashions and fads, food--even bad food--has a history, and Lovegren's Fashionable Food is quite literally a cookbook of the American past.

Well researched and delightfully illustrated, this collection...

• Format: Paperback
• Language: English
• ISBN: 0226494071
• ISBN13: 9780226494074
• Release Date: June 2005
• Publisher: University of Chicago Press
• Length: 464 Pages
• Weight: 2.05 lbs.
• Dimensions: 1.0" x 7.2" x 9.5"

Customer Reviews

Definitely one of my favorite books

The reviewer (below) who faulted this book for its inconsistencies has a point. I've noticed the same flaws in passing, but, for me, the pleasures of this book easily outweigh them. I ran across it by chance, have owned it for years, and return to it again and again--sampling favorite bits or random bits as a "I'm too tired to start a new novel--let's just read something familiar" bedtime read. I've often wanted to write the author to tell her how much satisfaction her book has given me; only the hassles and uncertainty of trying to mail something via a publisher deterred me. It offers so many fascinating details. Her account of the rise of the '70s salad bar, or the economical toast-based suppers of the '30s. Marshmallow madness in the 20s, the "lie" of American "Chinese" food, etc. I'm in no way a "foodie"--a creepy word that suggests a minor character on that old HR Pufinstuf show--but this book is, in many ways, also a valuable social and pop-cultural history. So glad to see it's been reprinted.

Excellent Social History of American Recipes

`Fashionable Food, Seven Decades of Food Fads' by culinary historian and food writer, Sylvia Lovegren is a great addition to the social history of American culinary folkways, especially with its concentration on actual, tested recipes from each of the seven subject decades from the 1920s to the 1980s. It is an interesting contrast in approach to `Something from the Oven' by Laura Shapiro that deals more with narrative and less with recipes. The ideal book would have been a combination of the two techniques. The most important thing to remember is that Ms. Lovegren is talking about things that were `fashionable', not with the demographics of food habits. As Ms. Shapiro points out in her book, the advent of the convenience foods after World War II did not permeate American cooking. They, along with their most vocal proponent, Poppy Cannon, got a lot of attention, but were always viewed as shortcuts and not necessarily a tectonic shift in American cooking habits. Reading a version of this book revised and republished in 2005 makes me wonder why the author did not update the material in this book to cover the last 15 years, where the playing out of so many trends, and the origin of so many new ones would have added so much interesting material to the book. The advent of the Food Network alone may have warranted a chapter. In all, the coverage of food journalism, especially TV food journalism is just a little thin. Dione Lucas and Jeff Smith (the Frugal Gourmet) are mentioned briefly and Julia Child is given her due for her truly incredible influence on American eating, but there is no mention of, for example Martin Yan, the Galloping Gourmet, and local TV cooking shows. While I take the book at its word since my interest in culinary writing is no more than three years old, I get the sense that virtually everything the author says about the 1980s is still true today. There is little that was popular in 1985 that is not a hot item on today's cooking shows or in today's cookbooks. On the other hand, I applaud the attention the author gives to M.F.K. Fisher's statements and writings. Ms. Fisher is too easily forgotten in the towering shadow of Julia Child and the leading current distaff celebs, Alice Waters and Deborah Madison. That doesn't mean Ms. Waters and Ms. Madison are not given their due. I especially like the fact that Ms. Lovegren has not taken sides on the issue of who originated the `California Cuisine'. The primary contenders are Alice Waters and Jeremiah Tower, Chez Panisse and Waters' first major chef who helped set the course for Chez Panisse along the lines laid out by Richard Olney's writings on `simple French food'. Like all good social and cultural history, the book does its share of explaining interesting facts, such as why the Chinese ended up in so many tailor, laundry, and cooking jobs. It was, according to Ms. Lovegren, simply because these were women's occupations and therefore virtually the only ones open to former Chinese

A fun look at American food fads from the 20s to the 80s

"Fashionable Food" serves up the most entertaining overview of mealtime in America since Jane and Michael Stern's "Square Meals." From tasty to trendy to just plain oddball, if it was embraced by the guardians of hearth and home, you'll find it here. Relive the era of Prohibition with "Flapper Pudding", explore new frontiers of soup with a 1930s "Mystery Cake" courtesy of Campbell's, endure the restrictions of the 40s war years - and celebrate the glory of the "goodbye to rations" post-war era. Go swank with a 50s Cocktail Party or sophisticated as you explore 60s gourmet cuisine. Get back to earth with 70s health food and expand your palate with the regional foods of the 80s. Sprinkled throughout are tantalizing tidbits from re-visiting old friends like The Mystery Chef and Sheila Hibben to rediscovering the wonders of Chinese and Hawaiian cuisine when they were new and exotic. From crockpots to fondues; from Betty Crocker to Alice Waters; from Trader Vic's to Elmer Fudpucker's; if it's part of our gastronomical history, it's part of this entertaining hodgepodge of American food.