Essence and Alchemy: A Natural History of Perfume

by Mandy Aftel

Book Overview

Publishers Weekly called this unique title an extraordinary treatise on the history and making of perfume and hails author Mandy Aftel's ability to bring sheer delight in the bouquet of aromas in the natural world and her irreverent sensibility that embraces 'little-acknowledged' aphrodisiacs like the smell of sweat.

Renowned perfumer Mandy Aftel explores the primal nature and fundamental importance of aroma in everyday life, teaching people...

• Format: Paperback
• Language: English
• ISBN: 1586857029
• ISBN13: 9781586857028
• Release Date: January 2004
• Publisher: Gibbs Smith
• Length: 246 Pages
• Weight: 0.65 lbs.
• Dimensions: 0.7" x 5.6" x 7.5"

Customer Reviews

This should be a prerequiste book...

This is the book to have when you want the best perspective about natural perfumery. Most perfume books focus solely on the synthetic or aesthetic aspect of scent. "Essence and Alchemy" goes into depth about all aspects of perfume: scientifically, historically, sensually and spiritually. Maybe this will add one more element to home perfume-making. It's what makes the book unique. That, and it's a great read. I renewed it twice from the library when I first came across it!

Solid Research & Writing

What I really appreciated about this book was the quality of research that went into the project. I would love to spend a day in Mandy's library looking through her resources.Next comes "Artistic Integrity" where Mandy boldy presents subjects regardless of their popularity, and without fear of dealing with petty, small-minded, and prejudiced people who will scorn her efforts based on these prejudices.The book is primarily about "Natural Perfumery" as it was, and as it is today, and she does so beautifully!I personally consider it a must, not only for those interested in perfumery, but in all the aromatic arts.

enchanting!!

This book relates the historical facts about perfumes in an enjoyable, easy to read manner. The author does not limit herself to the descriptions of the typical essential oils listed in most books such as lavender, rose and jasmine, but also includes more exotic aromatics such as blood orange, champa, amberette, and cabreuva. She does not include the more medicinal smelling oils like thyme and tea tree in her recomendations as many other books do. However, this is a book on perfumary and the esthetic properties of the essential oils are the focus. For those interested in the technical and medicinal merits of the essential oils, this is not the book for you. The author does not promote the use of animal products; they are mentioned as these oils are a part of the history of perfumery, and still have a role , albiet diminished, in the modern perfume industry. Her discriptions of the various oils are detailed and her anecdotal references are interesting. She describes how to blend oils, offers suggestions on blending companions, and provides enough data to create your own blends. The oils are catagorized by note, and also according to family ie. resin, citrus, floral etc.She also includes recipies, indicates which oils are costly and/or difficult to find, and some sources. Overall, this is a well written, entertaining, and information packed book, which focuses on perfumery not chemistry.A sheer joy to read, and inspiring for the creative nature of blending essential oils.

When Mr. Gilbert Talks....

I am familiar with the few available sources of reliable information on perfumery, as well as the various treatises on sundry applications of natural botanical oils and extracts. Books offering expert insight into the individual ingredients used in natural Perfumery, such as Steffan Arctander's History of Natural Flavors and fragrance Materials, are quite scarce and far beyond the budget of most. Recent publications on the fundamentals of perfumery, such as Salvatore Paul Gimelli's Aroma Science, are highly technical and unsuited to those lacking a broad foundation in chemistry. I would recommend that Ms. Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume be considered mandatory reading for anyone fascinated with natural oils and extracts, and the sensual world of Perfume. This is an ideal guide to the student and neophyte perfumer alike. Ms. Aftel has offered us a wonderful introduction to natural perfumery. Those seeking an historical study of perfumery will find in Essence and Alchemy exhaustive research distilled into a fascinating and elegant retelling. But more than providing us with a mere history of perfumery, Ms. Aftel has shared a wealth of knowledge gathered from her own experiences working as a professional perfumer. Essence and Alchemy offers a unique insight into a master perfumer's art. Ms. Aftel provides a most enchanting invitation to the world of natural perfume, and if ever a book may revitalize the all but lost art of natural perfumery, it is Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy. A reviewer has expressed strong disapproval over the inclusion of Animal derived materials, such as Civet, in Ms. Aftel's book.. Civet is certainly among the ingredients used in traditional natural perfumery. Civet can prove extremely difficult to work with, and a great deal of skill is required to successfully formulate with this ingredient. Competence in the application of Civet may serve as an indicator of the skill of a natural perfumer. Of course, use of Civet, or any animal derived ingredient is not necessary to make natural perfume. Vegetarians, Vegans, and many others who find animal derived materials unpleasant may work without them. In my opinion, this reviewer has greatly overstated the role of animal derived materials as suggested in Essence and Alchemy. Nowhere in Essence and Alchemy does the Author "wax nostalgic on the world of perfumery when animals were hunted to extinction or worse for their essences". This remark is absurd, and hurtful. The author expresses no cruel delight in reminiscing over the decimation of species sacrificed in order to collect fragrant musk.. Civet Cats are not slaughtered to collect Civet Paste, which is a grease-like substance secreted from glands located below the animal's tail. Proper care of the cats will vary from keeper to keeper, but it is not necessary to do the animal harm while collecting Civet Paste. Any keeper who cares for the animals or values them as a source of livelihood will protect the c

Essence & Alchemy

This just might be the best overall book on fragrance ever, ever written. It is of essential interest to the reader interested in perfume at most any level, from the connoisseur to the designer to the fabricator to the consumer. Mandy Aftel persists in creating perfumes from "all natural" ingredients, after "the trade" now relies on synthetics and scent enhancers and linear construction, even in the most expensive concoctions. And, here we're talking about QUALITY perfumes with history behind them, not new age, "go with the glow" infusions that are often a little reminiscent of the compost heap after the rain. For the general reader, Aftel references the history of fragrance preparation, from ancient times, through alchemists perfumery, to the great age of the perfection of the art in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. All the traditional ingredients are itemized, from essential incenses and oils used as the "base" to the citrus and floral essences used for the "heart" or middle notes, to the delicate and short-termed finishing high or "head" notes. The properties of each are well explored. More interested readers will be delighted to learn more about the character of what is going into their favorite perfumes and what combines and what doesn't. The reader considering dabbling in perfumery, will find this to be an excellent guide on how to start and continue to build fragrances from easily obtainable essences acquired by mail order.