No restaurant defines Yankee cooking as well as Boston's Durgin-Park. In an atmosphere of clattering dishes, conversation, and sharp-tongued waitresses, it serves its time-hallowed specialties: roast beef that may be the best anywhere, incredible quantities of Boston baked beans, New England boiled dinners, chowder, apple pie, apple pan dowdy, and hot cornbread.Few restaurants can claim a tradition as long and entrenched as Durgin-Park. Founded in...