Dancing the Wave: Audacity, Equilibrium, and Other Mysteries of Surfing

by Jean-Etienne Poirier

There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with the ocean. In Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the...

• Format: Paperback
• Language: English
• ISBN: 1590300602
• ISBN13: 9781590300602
• Release Date: July 2003
• Publisher: Shambhala
• Length: 159 Pages
• Weight: 0.60 lbs.
• Dimensions: 0.5" x 6.2" x 8.0"

Customer Reviews

best surfing book you can get

If you're looking for a book that tells you the technical way to ride your board, then this book isn't for you. But if you're looking for a book that really gets at the heart and soul of surfing, then you will love what this true rider has to say.