Amy Waeschle shares her globe-trotting adventures and chronicles her evolution from a nervous newbie to a self-confident and skillful surfer: Cramming into a hot bus near Playa Linda, Mexico, clutching a beat-up foam body board. Quivering, blue-lipped, on a rocky beach after a session in Vancouver Island's icy swells. Braving explosions of ocean spray and hanging out with ski bums in Fiji. Discovering small villages and the essence of ''pura vida''...