TO DO THE LEWIS AND CLARK TRAIL, I had no plan except to put my canoe in the water and paddle. I had done no prior research. I had no backup person or crew. I had no cell phone. I didn't even have a map. I was excited but, basically clueless. From my home near Kansas City, I drove my old junker car to the Pacific Coast where, at the mouth of the Columbia River, I donated it to a local salvage yard. Then with no other way home, I set out with canoe...