""Isfahan is half the world"" was the proud boast of the 17th-century capital of Persia, established as the new political centre of the country by Shah Abbas I shortly after his accession to the throne in 1588. One of the many travellers attracted to Persia by these claims was Jean Chardin, a young French jeweller who spent a total of 10 years in Isfahan. During this time, he became intimately familiar with the city, its markets, shops, and...