To many foreigners, Colombia is a nightmare of drugs and violence. Yet normal life goes on there, and, in Bogot , it's even possible to forget that war still ravages the countryside. This paradox of perceptions--outsiders' fears versus insiders' realities--drew June Carolyn Erlick back to Bogot for a year's stay in 2005. She wanted to understand how the city she first came to love in 1975 has made such strides toward building a peaceful civil...