Russians visit the Caucasus with a sense of homecoming, Andrei Bitov--one of the Soviet Union's most gifted stylists--has remarked. They find there a world familiar from the moral and philosophic landscapes of Pushkin, Lermontov, and Tolstoy. In Lessons of Armenia, the first of the two personal memoirs that constitute this book, Bitov explores the way Pushkin's confines of boundless Russia seem never to be truly escapable. Though held in thrall by...